HAIFA, ISRAEL

April 15, I7 2023

Israel is a breath of fresh air! --especially after seeing struggling countries like Egypt, Israel impresses as a vibrant can-do, proud country. And they should be proud based on what they have accomplished in just 75 years. It is a country about the size of New Jersey without a lot of natural resources. They use technology and sheer will to achieve prosperity. One of our guides pointed out that Israeli citizens have been awarded 19 Nobel prizes in their short existence whereas Iran which has roughly 9 times the population as Israel can only claim 1. As you drive around you would think you are in Austin and the Hill Country.

Of course, Israel has an extraordinarily rich history that has written records over multiple millennia and is the cradle of three major religions: Hebrew, Christianity and Muslim.

We visited Israel in 2012 and toured the religious sites of Bethlehem, Jerusalem, Galilee and Nazareth. We even walked the route that Jesus walked to his crucifixion. So this time we decided to take tours to two archeological sites - Caesarea and Acre, two sites we knew nothing about.

Caesarea, about 30 miles south of Haifa, was built under the leadership of Herod the Great, Roman King of Judea, starting around 25 BC. We entered the site at a large amphitheater of unbelievable stonework and then walked to the ruins where his palace once stood on the shores of the Mediterranean. It must have been a magnificent structure complete with a large swimming pool fed by the ocean. Farther along, an excavation was underway to uncover the place where the Apostle Paul was imprisoned for 2 years around 55 AD. Beyond that was a stadium or hippodrome that was probably 200 yards long. It was initially where Christians were fed to the lions and, after that became frowned upon, was used as a field for chariot races. King Herod had built one of the most impressive harbors of his time and dedicated the city of Caesarea and harbor to Emperor Caesar Augustus. The harbor was partly destroyed by a Tsunami in 115 AD, but was later rebuilt and used as a military port by both the Muslim and Christian crusaders.

Acre, about 30 miles north of Haifa on the coast, is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. It was a strategically important port during the Crusades for the Christians who held the city for most of the period between 1104 and 1291 when they lost control to Mamluks (Turks). After the Muslims took control they, over the years, buried the city built by the Christians and built their structures on top. Just recently (discovered in 1995 when a woman reported a plumbing problem), Israelis excavated the area and uncovered the city built by the Crusaders. For the Christian Crusaders, Acre was the most important port in the region and became the de facto capital of the Christians in the Middle East.

Hospitallers, a religious military order of the Crusaders, built a hospital (that’s where the name comes from) to care for the pilgrims coming to worship and for the Crusaders. The Knights Templar built an underground tunnel from inside the fortress to the sea.

The whole excavated structure of meeting halls, barracks, hospital and tunnels of magnificent stonework is really something to behold and is rich in history, particularly of the Crusades, including the religious orders of Hospitallers, Knights Templar and Richard The Lionheart.

Back to modern times. Our guide pointed out that Christian Arabs and Jews get along just fine in the country and live in mixed neighborhoods in Haifa. He also gave us his view of the current situation in the country where the coalition government under Benjamin Netanyahu are trying to allow the Legislative Branch to overrule the Judicial Branch. He felt this would seriously undermine democracy in Israel.

We found Israel to be one of the most impressive places on our trek.

A view from Carmel Mountain over Haifa and the Temple of Baha'i,

a small religious sect that emphasizes gardens and natural beauty.

A broader view of Haifa from Mount Carmel

Most all residential buildings have solar water heaters on their roofs.

The white cylinders are the hot water reservoirs.

On the way to Caesarea we passed about 20-25 miles of farms. The white is a plastic covering

of banana plants, we guess to protect agains birds or the sun which can be intense in the summer.

Israel's agriculture industry is robust.

Theater inside the Caesarea ruins which is still used for concerts.

View of the ruins. A fort constructed by the Crusaders is in the far distance.

We are standing where Herod's palace was located overlooking the pool and Mediterranean.

Remnants of a public toilet: you sat on the stone straddling the crack.

Water ran down the trough below your feet carrying the waste away. Best to be uphill.

The hippodrome where gladiator battles and chariot races were held.

Public bath

We were in the park on Saturday. Lots of families were playing games and picnicking.

Now we are in Acre, the site built by the Crusaders. View of the hospital built by Hospitaller Knights

Excavated rooms built and used by Crusaders in the time of Richard the Lion Heart.

We believe this was the banquet room

More underground structures and art

The building at the top was a prison used by the British between 1918 and 1947. Our guide's father was imprisoned there for a time. Below the prison was all part of the Crusaders Fort that has been excavated.